Friday, July 18, 2008

It's done, it's DONE!

This poor jacket's been sitting on my dress form for months and all it needed was the snaps! How pathetic is that? I finally put them on today and the jacket it DONE!

Rayon jacket

Here's my review:

Pattern Description:
Knit jacket with notched collar and flounces on the 3/4 length sleeves and bottom hem.

Pattern Sizing:
36-44. I made a 42 in the bust, grading out to a 44 in the waist and hips

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, pretty close I think.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't really follow them. I didn't even use their suggested pattern layout because I cut out the fabric on a single layer. This allowed me to keep the knit fabric smooth for all pieces and also attempt to keep the pattern even across the front. I did ok, I think - I was only off a little. I traced the pattern with 1/2 inch seam allowances.
As far as construction, I applied fusible straight tape to the shoulder seams and used a 4-thread overlock. I put the sleeves in flat instead of "set-in", but still had to put in a gathering stitch before sewing them because the sleeves had more fabric than could be eased. For the notched-collar, I consulted Vogue/Butterick Step-By-Step Guide To Sewing Techniques , which has very good illustrations and instructions for basic sewing techniques. I didn't trim the seam allowances completely though. I learned from another knit jacket project that a 1/4 inch seam allowance can sometimes be lumpy so I only trimmed at the points, gradually going out to the full 1/2 inch seam allowances I used. I pressed the collar well, using a press cloth so as not to damage the fabric. I used lots of steam and my wooden clapper to get the collar nice and flat.
I used a 3-thread narrow overlock on the edge of the flounce. I tried a lot of samples first. I found that a 3-thread rolled hem pulled away from the fabric and when I stabilized with a washaway I was surprised to find I was working with a rayon knit and not polyester as I had thought. This jacket will have to be "dry clean only", I'm afraid. Next, I tried stabilizing with fusible tape but the result was too stiff. I then decided to just use a narrow overlock. After reading Nellc's review for this pattern, I tried wooly nylon in the top looper and I liked the results.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the trendy style and the fact that it used a knit.

Fabric Used:
Rayon burn-out knit with fusible tricot for the interfacing. The fabric was purchased a few years ago from G-Street Fabrics in Virginia.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
The only alteration I made was to grade from size 42 in the bust to size 44 in the waist and hips. I changed the buttons to snaps as used on the nearly identical jacket style 120 and used 4 snaps instead of 3 since mine were a bit smaller (size 24) than called for.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! Originally I wanted to make this in a thick, red jersey but was disappointed to find I didn't have enough fabric. The flounces take up a lot of fabric, so you need about 2 yards for this jacket.
This was a learning process, as I think all projects are - even if they're little things.

  • I learned that even when I think the fabric is polyester, I should check and prewash at least a sample.
  • I learned not to trim every seam allowance if it doesn't need it.
  • I learned that samples are important when trying a new technique, such as a rolled hem.
  • I learned that jackets can be knit and they don't have to be difficult.


  1. Oh very nice! I like the fabric and the flounces.

    Question for you--what kind of dress form is that and where did you buy it?

  2. This jacket is *so* pretty!

  3. It's beautiful! I love the fabric and the flouces on the hem!

  4. You did a great job! Love it.

  5. I love this jacket - the ruffle is feminine without being ruffly. Thanks for visiting me. There aren't too many folks in my world who appreciate muslins, I'm glad you do and said so!