Friday, October 02, 2015

Summer top #2

Here is the second summer top I made - Simplicity 1884.

It looks warm out there, but it was actually a bit brisk. Fall is definitely in the air!



 


Pattern notes:
I cut a size L. I increased the side seams starting from the waist and increasing to 5/8 inches at the bottom edge. I also added 2 inches to the bottom.
 
Fabric used:
Lightweight cotton, purchased in Germany.
 
Construction notes:
I used my sewing machine for all seams and hems, and I used a 3-thread overlock stitch on my serger to finish the raw edges of the side seams. The arm holes are finished with a bias binding facing. I cut bias strips from the fabric instead of using packaged bias tape.
 
The top yoke consists of two pieces: the under piece is stitched to the front and back and then the top piece is placed over it, wrong sides together and with the edges of the top piece folded under. The top piece is then stitched onto the under piece, resulting in visible stitching along the lower edge of the yoke. If I were to do this in a silk or rayon, I might hand stitch, but for a casual blouse this stitching is fine - and there's also stitching that shows along the armholes due to the bias binding facing.
 
Overall impressions:
I wanted a loose, sleeveless top for hot summer days and this is what I got. Maybe a bit too voluminous. I used a lightweight cotton fabric but I think this top would drape better in a rayon, polyester or silk.
 
These might be new techniques for a beginner:
  • Under stitching a facing
  • Bias binding facings
 
Lessons learned:
  • Bias bound facings are nice but don't use packaged bias tape. Make your own out of the fabric or use a different color for a bit of contrast.
  • Under stitching is a pain but worth it. I noticed some cheap, fast fashion jackets that had facings that weren't under stitched and they look horrible, partly because the jacket material was an icky poly that wouldn't press but also because the facings weren't under stitched.
  • Happy with the alterations I made.
 
Overall impressions:
I wanted a loose, sleeveless top for hot summer days and this is what I got. Maybe a bit too voluminous. I used a lightweight cotton fabric but I think this top would drape better in a rayon, polyester or silk.
 
Recommend it?
Yes. I think the pattern is more suited to a flowy fabric (rayon, silk, polyester), but lightweight cotton works for a casual look.

4 comments:

  1. LOVE that print. This looks good on you. I have become a huge fan of bias facings - and it is so easy to make your own bias. - Heather

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    1. Thanks! I am also now a fan of bias binding facings. Plus I finally get to use those metal guides I bought for ironing bias binding strips.

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  2. Love that unusual print.

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    1. It was the end of a bolt in my local department store's fabric section. The clerk even gave me a discount (without my even asking) since it was the end of the bolt - amazing and something that certainly never happens at Joanns!

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